At the 2015 SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) in Geneva in January, each of the 16 elite brands exhibiting at the invite-only fair present their new creations. As an introduction to the presentation by Van Cleef & Arpels, company CEO Nicolas Bos remarked: Van Cleef & Arpels has a very positive vision of life. We need dreams. Beauty will save the world. That is our mission.”
These eloquent words easily describe the entire breadth of introductions at this year’s SIHH, where every brand introduced what can only be described as beautiful timepieces. Here is a taste of what was introduced at the fair. We’ll reveal more treasures in upcoming issues of Chronos.
The new Clé de Cartier is a new full collection from Cartier, with a distinctive shaped case: a circle within an oval. The watch retains all the codes of Cartier, including railroad-style chapter ring, Roman numerals and flinqué inner dial. The crown resembles a key, hence the name (clé is French for key). To wind and set the watch, it is first turned, as a key would be.
It contains a new movement, the automatic Caliber 1847 MC with a dual-direction winding system and a 42-hour power reserve. The watch is being issued in gold, with a pavé version, pictured here.
The IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar automatically calculates the number of days of the month.
It contains the IWC automatic Caliber 52850 with two barrels for a 7-day power reserve.
It is unlimited in three versions: steel with blue or silver dial (pictured) and rose gold. In addition to the month, date and day windows – ordered in the American style – it displays a power reserve indicator and a small seconds subdial.
The dial of the Jaeger- LeCoultre Master Calendar
is made of meteorite, which has a matrix and is therefore unique on each dial.
It contains Caliber 866, with a 43-hour power reserve.
Functions include hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, month and moon phases. The 39 mm case is steel.
Among this year’s new introductions from Montblanc is this elegantly enameled 24-city world timer, the Orbis Terrarum (latin for “globe”) from the Heritage Spirit collection.
A day/night disk shows at a glance where it is day or night on the planet. It contains the automatic Caliber MB29.20.
The open worked movement (automatic Caliber PF705) of the Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Squelette is finished with 127 beveled edges angled by hand, each of which takes 40 hours to engrave.
The case is 18k white gold and the strap, like all Parmigiani Fleurier straps, is made by Hermès.
The outstanding Ralph Lauren Automotive Skeleton is a milestone for the brand: its first skeletonized movement, a new logo and a new type of wood accent – amboyna burl, which is commonly used in the instrumentation panels of classic luxury cars.
The movement, with an IWC base, was skeletonized and blackened for Ralph Lauren exclusively by Richemont’s movement workshop, Val Fleurier. It is the manual- wound Caliber RL1967.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Acoustic Research timepiece showcases new technology and materials that will be incorporated into future models.
The sound of the minute repeater chime has been enhanced after eight years of in-depth research by the company’s acoustic research lab in collaboration with the Ecole Polytechnique Federal de Lausanne. It contains a new, almost silent striking mechanism regulator.
The 44mm case is titanium, and it contains a hand wound manufacture movement with minute repeater, tourbillon and column wheel chronograph. It has a 48-hour power reserve.
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
The Lange One is A. Lange & Sohne’s most iconic timepiece, instantly recognizable for its asymmetrical dial with outsize date display and prominently positioned power reserve indicator. Introduced in 1994, and now with 15 models in the collection, the essential look and technicalities have not been altered since then. Until now. It now has a slightly narrower bezel, which opens up more space on the dial, without changing the 38.5 mm case size.
It been given a new, technically evolved movement, the manually wound Caliber L121.1, and a twin mainspring barrel with a power reserve of 72 hours.
Piaget sets another record
in the “thinnest” category, introducing the world’s thinnest hand wound chronograph. It measures 8.24 mm in the case, and the movement alone measures 4.65 mm.
The new caliber, 883P, is presented in the Altiplano model, in a 41 mm rose gold case. Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, flyback chronograph and a second time zone at 9 o’clock.
The Roger Dubuis World Premiere Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon is technical, sporty and glamorous. The bezel is rubber, and is set with 60 baguette diamonds (2.24 carats).
The movement, hand- wound Caliber RD505SQ, is blackened and skeletonized in the typical star-shaped, angular Roger Dubuis style, and like all Roger Dubuis watches, it is finished to Hallmark of Geneva standards.
BAUME & MERCIER
The Baume & Mercier Clifton Big Date and Power Reserve
is a classic dress watch, with stainless steel case and applied gold Arabic numerals. It is inspired by a 1950s model from the company’s museum collection.
The new Clifton contains a Swiss-made automatic movement with a module for the large date display and a power reserve indicator. The caseback is open to reveal a decorated movement, including a rotor engraved with the Greek letter Phi, the brand’s logo.
The Radiomir 1940 Equation of Time 8 Days contains the Panerai Caliber P.2002E, with three spring barrels for an impressive power reserve
of eight days.
Functions include equation of time, small seconds at 9 o’clock and a discreet month indicator at 3 o’clock, next to which is a date window. The case is made of AISI 316L stainless steel, an alloy that is particularly resistant to corrosion. The watch is water resistant to 100 meters.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
This year Van Cleef & Arpels reinvents the Cadenas, it’s iconic watch designed in 1935 and made famous in 1936 when it was gifted to the Duchess of Windsor by King Edward.
The dial of the watch is discreetly angled so that only the wearer can see the time. The new Cadenas remains faithful to the design codes of the original, with three subtle updates: The dial has been enlarged, there is a more secure clasp on the bracelet, and the case now sparkles with snow-set gems. There are nine models in the new collection.
Richard Mille’s new ladies’ watch, the RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur, has a unique floral- designed cover over the flying tourbillon escapement.
The cover, consisting of five petals of the magnolia flower opens or closes automatically every five minutes, or on demand. There are two barrels, one of which is dedicated exclusively to this function. The petals, hand-painted over white gold, were made by the Geneva metiers atelier Olivier Vaucher. It is a limited edition of 30 pieces.
This is a view through the case back of the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Méchaniques Gravées 14-day Tourbillon skeletonized Caliber 2260/1, with two large bridges. The movement is skeletonized and entirely hand engraved with floral motifs and acanthus leaves in a pattern reminiscent of
early pocket watches created by Vacheron Constantin – which in turn were inspired by elements of classic Greek architecture. Some of the decorated components are no more than 0.35 mm thick.